Gala's Castle in Pubol: Exploring the Property of Dalí's Russian Wife

I have a deep admiration for people who have the ability to change perceptions and expand horizons through the power of creativity. In my eyes, Salvador Dali is a virtuoso, a maestro of bold statements, an innovator of his time. If you are an art connoisseur, I strongly recommend a pilgrimage to his museum in Figueres and his house in Port Lligat. These places are well-known havens for fans of Dalí's work. But there is another iconic place where the genius left an indelible mark. The Gala Dalí Castle in Púbol is the refuge where Gala, Dalí's muse and beloved companion, once lived. We will tell you why you should go there below...

All his life, Dali loved only one woman and brought to her feet anything she wished. Gala was Russian. She was born in Kazan and went by the name Elena Diakonova. Throughout the story, she remained a headstrong woman with quirks. At the beginning of their love affair, Dali promised to give Gala a real castle! Thirty years later, he kept his promise. In 1969 he bought a suitable place for his wife - a medieval castle from the XII century. The building was in a miserable state and Dali put a lot of creative effort into renovating it. Dali chivalrously handed over the keys to his mistress and from then on only appeared there with her written permission.

Gala was a frequent visitor to the castle between 1970 and 1980. She stayed there for long periods during the summer and received lovers. After the death of her mistress, Púbol became a place of retreat for Dali. In 1996, the residence was opened to tourists.

The castle is surrounded by a shady, lush garden with cypresses, shrubs and fountains. There are ivy-covered benches here, and imaginative animals peeking out there. Anyone at all familiar with Dali's work will recognise them. Elephants on slender giraffe legs seem to have stepped out of the artist's canvases and become guardians of the garden and gigantic defenders of Gala.

Three avenues in the garden lead to a pool with a fountain. In the centre of the composition is a sculpture of Cupid and a sea monster. On the sides are scattered busts of Wagner, Salvador Dali's favourite composer.

There is an orange car at the exit of the garden and a black Cadillac in the garage. The first car was Gala's. The second was Dali's. It was used to transport his wife's body from Port Lligat to Pubol. Gala wanted to be buried in the crypt of her castle, and transporting the dead over long distances was forbidden by law at the time. But her lover's wish was stronger than the law. So Dali placed the body on the back seat and sat next to the Sister of Mercy. According to the artist's plan, if they were stopped by the police, she could confirm that the lady had died on the road.

The tour of the house begins in the Hall of Arms. Here is the throne on which the painter intended his muse to meet her guests.

The ceiling of the room was painted by Dali himself. It reminded me of the theatre museum in Figueres - mysterious and elegant. The photo on the left shows the ceiling in Poubol Castle, the one on the right in Figueres.

In the living room, next to the furniture, there is a grand piano. Rumour has it that Gala bought it for one of her young lovers. There are also dozens of bizarre pieces of furniture here. One of the strangest is a table on ostrich legs! It sits above a hole in the floor, so that if you look at the table from above, you can see through the glass a stable and a stuffed horse on the floor below.

There are 12 rooms in the castle and only 2 bedrooms - one for Gala and one for Dali. The mistress slept in the blue room. Everything is simple and in Russian colours. On the bedside table there is an icon from Russia - the picture of the Kazan Mother of God. On the ceiling - dried immortelle. They are Galya's favourite flowers. Salvador used them to decorate the rest of the rooms, as well as their house in Port Lligat.

Next to the bedroom is the boudoir. Even by today's standards, it's very elegant and cosy. When the castle was completed, Gala was 74 years old. And as she always liked to look spectacular, she spent hours in this room. The table is littered with bows and hairpins, which she loved and which adorned her grey hair.

The library and guest rooms are full of Dali paintings, many of which depict a clover (Gala believed it was good luck). Objects with the image of a swallow are a reminder of the artist's tender love for his wife. Galarina in Spanish means "swallow". Salvador often referred to his wife by this name because of her quick movements and black hair.

In the attic there is an exhibition of Gala's clothes. Her entire wardrobe is made up of clothes by world-famous designers - there is Dior, Cardin and even dresses designed by Dali.... Despite the brand names, the clothes look extraordinary. As Gala herself admitted, she had a particular taste in clothes and men.

Another fascinating point is the photographic exhibition on the life of Gala and Dali. You can follow all the stages of this extraordinary couple's relationship - their acquaintance, the beginning of their romance, their social outings. ....

Under the house is the crypt where Gala is buried. Directly above it is the dining room, which became Dali's studio after the death of his beloved. It was there, in seclusion, that he came to terms with his loss, and it is here that one of his last paintings, 'Swallowtail', is kept.

Púbol is located 125 km from Barcelona. You can get to the castle in an hour and a half by car, coordinates here. 

The trip will take no more than an hour, so I recommend combining it with a visit to Girona (which is only 25 km from the castle).

For the road Barcelona - Púbol both ways (including toll roads) will cost about 20€. 

About 200 people live in the small village. It has 5 souvenir shops, a parish church and only one restaurant. So it is better to take food with you.

For adults - 8 €

For students and pensioners - 6 €

Official page: salvador-dali.org

Text and photo: Katya Keso